Carpets are a wonderful addition to one’s home. With its ability to partially sound proof a room and the comfort it brings to an owner, these textile floor coverings are surely off the hook when it comes to ornamenting the house. However, with all these benefits come many downsides: carpets, if not maintained properly, can be a repository of dust and whatnot. It is therefore an onus for owners with these floor rugs to regularly maintain them by having them vacuumed clean at least twice a month. Owners are also advised to splurge on no-stain floor coverings. To avoid incurring more expenses in the long run, potential buyers can also opt to subscribe to lifetime replacements and avoid cheap carpets to stave off any huge expenses in the future.
Seeking professional advice can help one save money when choosing for the perfect carpet. If one purchases the carpet from an independent shop, he is highly advised to consult with the special retailer and check if whether the shop is registered with the Carpet Foundation. Members of such foundation are required to adhere to OFT-approved code of practice by giving professional advice to customers. If one opts to choose his own fitter for installation of the carpet, one must be sure that such fitter is a member of the National Institute of Carpet and Floorlayers. These measures must be observed to ensure the proper installation of the floor covering hence avoiding gaps, bumps and tracks on the carpet. In choosing a fitter, one must look for additional services they offer like clearing of the room, door trimming, checking and fixing of loose floorboards and many more.
Again, just like any bargain, when one spots a suitable carpet for his home, he should not be afraid to haggle for the best price and fitting in each store. Being afraid to negotiate can cost a person more money.
Working at a locksmith Charlotte based company we come across our fair share of burglaries in our day to day work. The protection of lives and property is a very serious thing to undertake; this is the reason why people look to defend themselves with complete video surveillance systems for homes and offices. The main idea of utilizing such a system is the harnessing of the power of modern technology. With today’s technology, any individual or company can now have a complete surveillance system at a rather low cost.
The cost of installing video surveillance systems is certainly offset by the security and protection that such a system provides. This is why they are crucial for homes, offices and warehouses. There are many different parts to the installation and creation of a formidable security surveillance system.
The main parts of the entire system are the security cameras. These surveillance cameras need to be situated in strategic locations to be able to cover all entry points to a home or office building. These cameras can also be pointed at special things or areas of concern such as highly valuable objects.
The cameras utilized in such systems can either be hidden or mounted in plain sight. It is important to be aware of the power cord set-up of any security system you by as you want to be sure that they are not clumsy or in the way. The mounting of these cameras in either way will likely set the tone and the feel of the area being protected. With overtly mounted cameras, the homeowner or the office management is clearly stating that they are ready and that they see everything happening in their domain.
The cameras used also need to be chosen for their clarity and their other special features like the ability to be able to record in the dark. For cameras that are placed outside, they need to be ones that are made especially for all weather conditions and other rugged environments. Motion sensors and alarms can also be utilized along with these cameras for the fortification of the video surveillance systems.
Once an individual tries a method called loft insulation, it means he differs from the traditional ways of regulating and maintaining temperature. An increasing number of people worldwide find this kind of insulation effective and efficient. Studies have shown that this type of insulation is perfectly capable of being active for 40 years, which means that your expenses during construction can easily be offset by the money you save from unusually low electric bills.
However, not a lot of people are fully aware that several varieties of insulators are available for a corresponding type of roof until the actual installation. Most individuals also do not realize that they can choose between two primary types of loft insulation. Due to this lack of knowledge, individuals end up being forced to accept whatever the installation company organizes.
This article will discuss the main types of insulation, as well as the suitable variety for a corresponding roof. Did you know that you are perfectly capable of insulating your loft as long as it has no apparent condensation problems? As long as the loft is accessible and contains no damp problems, you are suited to insulate it yourself.
The two types of insulation are warm and cold lofts. The first type is where you can insulate readily below the roof of your loft. This means that a high temperature is present in the space of your loft as well. Since this type has higher complexity, this insulation is generally more expensive.
The second kind is the cold loft wherein you insulate above the ceiling on top of the floor. One of its typical characteristics is the absence of heat flowing into your loft. As compared to the warm type, this insulator is usually much cheaper. It is also easier to install, because it merely involves insulating the areas in between and above the roof joists located right on top of the ceiling.
There are kinds of insulation that perfectly correspond to a particular roof. For instance, either mineral or glass wool insulation is preferred for a warm roof solution. If these are not readily available, polystyrene slabs or expanded polystyrene can be utilized as substitutes. On the other hand, if you have a flat deck, three principal insulation solutions can be used – warm, cold, and inverted. These types have varying features that can be considered appropriate based on the particular arrangement of a roof.
Unless only a small area of wall near ground-level needs attention, you would be well advised to use a scaffold tower for repointing brickwork. Working on a ladder doesn’t give you the freedom to use both hands which you’ll need.
Work on about l sqm at a time, progressing from top to bottom and left to right if you’re right-handed, right to left if you’re left-handed. Rake out the old mortar to a depth of 10 to 20mm with a plugging chisel and brush away the debris carefully. If the brickwork is dry, dampen (but don’t drench) the surface with a broad brush dipped in water.
You can buy ready-mixed mortar or make your own. For old brickwork a suitable mixture is 1:1:6 of cement, lime and sand. With newer walls a mixture of 1:3 cement and sand will probably be more suitable. You can get coloured cements to help you match the existing mortar. Add the water slowly: the mixture should be just wet enough to be worked. You’ll need a hawk to carry the mortar to the wall (a piece of ply -wood or chipboard with a simple handle will suffice) and a ‘dotter’ or pointing trowel. For weather-struck joints, you’ll also need a ‘frenchman’ (an old kitchen knife or a strip of thin metal with the end bent over at right angles) and a straight-edge.
Press the mortar into the joints -vertical joints first, then horizontal -using the trowel. Remove surplus mortar by drawing the trowel across the surface at right-angles. Finish the joints to match those elsewhere on the house, using the trowel and ‘frenchman’ to produce weather-struck joints or a suitable piece of wood or metal for other types of joint. Take care not to smear mortar on to the face of the wall.
Finally, brush the surface gently to remove any surplus mortar. Stubborn patches can be removed by rubbing with a piece of brick.
- Rake out eh old mortar
- Dampen the brickwork
- Press the mortar into the joints with a small trowel
- For an ironed finish, use a piece of metal or hose
- Brush off any loose mortar
If a sash cord breaks, the chances are that other cords are also due for replacement. And replacing all the cords involves not much more work than replacing only one.
The frames of traditional sash windows are quite complicated because they need to provide concealed spaces for the counterweights. Start by lowering both sashes to the bottom of the box frame, then lever out the staff beads which hold the inner sash in place, using a broad chisel. Take care not to damage the beads, so they can be reused.
Swing out the inner sash and cut through the cords. Keep hold of each cord as you cut through and gently lower the counterweight. Remove the cut cords from the sash: they’re usually nailed, though some are wedged in place.
To remove the outer sash, lever out the parting beads and cut the cords as before. Remove the pocket cover and take out the weights, taking care not to damage the thin strip of timber, called a wagtail or parting slip, which stops the weights banging into one another. Clean out any debris from the bottoms of the weight compartments.
Check the pulleys at the top of the frame. They may need a little oil at least; at worst they may need to be replaced. If you have to buy new ones, take one of the old pulleys as a guide to size and type.
While you have the window dismantled, check for any loose joints in the sashes and take the opportunity to sand down the paintwork and repaint the frame and sashes.
To cut the new cords to length, first note the position of the bottom of the cord groove in each sash, and mark the equivalent positions on the frame for the sash fully up and fully down. Taking account of the lengths of the counterweights themselves, and allowing about 150mm for final adjustment and for the knot, cut the cords to length. Measure each cord individually: don’t assume that they’ll all be the same.
To feed the cords over the pulleys, tie a ‘mouse’ – a length of string with a weight small enough to pass over the pulleys – to the end of the cord. Put a temporary knot in the other end of the cord to stop it running right through. Then put the mouseover the pulley and retrieve it through the pocket, drawing the new sash cord over the pulley. Tie the cord to the counterweight and feed the weight through the pocket into the weight compartment. Pull on the free end of the cord to raise the weight as far as possible, allow it to drop about 25mm, then hold the cord at a point corresponding to the lower mark on the frame. Now allow the weight to fall, keeping hold of the cord, and check that the holding point moves past the upper mark before the weight ‘bottoms’ in the frame. Don’t let the weight fall too quickly or your fingers may get trapped in the pulley. If all is well, pull the weight up again and put a wedge in the pulley to hold it up. Then trim the cord to its final length by cutting at the holding point. Do the same for the other cords. Replace the pocket covers. Refit the outer sash in the frame, nailing (rather than wedging) the cords in the grooves with tacks or clout nails. Replace the parting beads using oval brads. Finally, refit the inner sash, attach it to its cords, and replace the staff beads.
Something that every home owner eventually faces at some point is whether or not renovating their home is a sound investment. These days with a struggling economy, whether to do so can be a big risk especially given the economic uncertainty of the housing market. However what if you are ready to sell your home and move on, is giving it a timely facelift a good idea? Or should you perhaps wait a bit for the economy to get better, or perhaps even forgo the whole idea? It is no surprise that real estate values have still not recover to what they once were a few years ago, and investing in your own piece of property may or may not be a good idea.
There are many real estate agents that disagree on this topic. For example Debbie Bixley of Manchester believes that if you are about to make a serious investment in the renovation of your home, you realize that you are doing it for the right choices. Bixley says “Merely making home improvements to raise the resale value of your home is not wise in these economic times”, also stating that “over the past few years we have seen home values decline even in the seeming recovery of the economy”. The bottom line, investing now in home improvements for the sake of adding value to your home may not be the best idea. Studies over the past few years shows that additional repairs does not always mean increased selling prices. Unfortunately due to the current state of the housing market, this may or may not be true in your area.
However that does not mean that all home repair is bad. Making renovations to your home is always a good idea if you want to upgrade your living space. This is especially true if you are not going to sell your home any time soon, as eventually when the economy does return you will reap the reward of your investment. Generally speaking repairs are good, just not in a down economy. These days repairs can be made cheap as well due to the fact that many contracting companies are struggling for work. Combine the act with the drop in prices of raw materials, and now may be the best time ever to make home repairs if you have the spare cash.
In order to protect your roof from the elements, you will need to apply some roof shingles. Roof shingles consists of several overlapping layers of shingles which are typically flat and rectangular in shape. They are laid in rows from the roof and they are connected is several successive rows through joints. The roof ridge has a cap that is based on copper and lead sheets. Nowadays, roof shingles are created by plastic material or even slate, wood, asphalt, ceramic or composite. Such types of shingles are designed to be fire proof and they are effective in preventing water from entering the roof.
The features of Roof Shingles
Roof shingles are primarily used to protect the foundation of homes from rain and snow. Such shingles are often created from fiberglass or asphalt which are soaked with petroleum hydrocarbons. For wooden shingles, they are often soaked with natural oils in a cellulose structure. Because of their nature, they are protected from the heat of the sun and their oil is softened when rainy season comes. The excess oil is often washed out once the rain pours down from the shingles. The water is then channeled into several rooflines and they are removed through a drain pipe.
The oil and the petroleum in most shingles will ultimately shrink and they will cause the wooden shingles to rot. Once rotten, the nail heads will be exposed and the small holes in the roof will then seep in some water. The underlying water will then cause rotting in the wood and it can cause moisture damage in both the roof and the ceilings. The walls and the paint will also be damaged because of the accumulated moisture. This is when re-shingling of the roof is required.
Shingles and Tiles
Various types of upvc cladding, shingles, and tiles are used as roofing supplies, yet they have differences. For shingles, they are traditionally made up of wood. Modern shingles are made of composite, asbestos or asphalt. For tiles they are often made of ceramic material and they are brittle. Tiles are ineffective when it comes to falling debris yet they are effective in the prevention of rotting. Tiles also last longer than shingles yet they are prone to fracture. Shingles on the other hand are effective when it comes to snowy and rainy season. Both of them should be replaced once damaged since they might cause the roof to leak.